As with hand needles, there are different machine needles for different types of fabric and techniques.Using the right needle with help ensure even, neat stitches.
One side of the needle shaft is flattened to ensure correct insertion into the needle aperture.Generally it is flat to back, but check your user’s manual.Incorrect insertion can cause skipped stitches.Always tighten the needle in position using the screwdriver supplied in your sewing machine’s tool kit otherwise it can work loose or move about when stitching.
Helpful hint:For new project, use a fresh needle.If using special needles for small amounts of sewing, paint the shaft with nail polish to colour code them.
Helpful hint:If a seam pulls up or stitches are skipped the needle may be too big; try a smaller size.If it breaks when stitching it may be too small; try a larger size.
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Sewing Nugget “Machine Needles” is an excerpt from “The Complete Book Of Sewing” By Wendy Gardiner.
Wendy Gardiner is a highly experienced needlewomen and editor of Sewing World Magazine, as well as being the author of several books on sewing and needlecrafts.She also works for pattern and fabric manufacturers and is therefore fully up to date with materials, tools and new developments in sewing.
The Complete Book Of Sewing and Sewing World Magazine are sold exclusively at Amazon.
For further details or to purchase please click on the respective names below:
Needles are available in different sizes with different points for different fabrics.The needle penetrates the fabric, taking the thread under the fabric and catching the bobbin thread to form stitches.If the needle is bent in the slightest way, the stitches will not form correctly.The needle size and type also play an important part in forming correct stitches.Holes in your fabric and skipped stitches are often caused by not using the correct needle.
--------------------------------
Sewing Nugget “Machine Needle” is an excerpt from “Teach Yourself Visually “Sewing” By Debbie Colgrove.
Debbie Colgrove, Sewing has always been a part of who Debbie Colgrove is and what she does in her spare time.She started sewing with her mother as a youngster, taking her first tailoring class at age 14.Since 1997, Debbie has been the sewing guide for About.com and continues to build and extensive library of sewing information on the website.As the former Web editor for Sew News magazine, she traveled extensively meeting sewing enthusiasts from all over the United States.She enjoys introducing sewing to children and adults through teaching sewing classes and individuals at charitable organizations such as 4-H clubs and charity sewing nights.Debbie serves on her local Home Economics advisory board and also provides leader training for 4-H.She works with many sewing machine companies to keep the world abreast of the latest options available to home sewers.Debbie lives in upstate New York with her family.
Acknowledgments on Teach Yourself Visually “Sewing”, After teaching many people to sew, I firmly believe that the book in your hands is the best possible learning tool for someone who wants to learn to sew.I can’t thank the editors of this book enough for the opportunity to share the information that this book contains.A heartfelt thank you to the companies that shared their products and so much of their experience.I would also like to thank my husband and daughter for their patience and understanding when I lost track of time or deserted them.
I will never be able to thank my mother, Althea Triebel, for all the things she has done for me.But I would like to take this opportunity to thank her for teaching me to sew it correctly or rip it out (even when I balked) and for the endless hours of driving me to places to enhance my learning experiences.
Teach Yourself Visually “Sewing” is sold exclusively at Amazon.
For further details or to purchase please click on the respective name below:
Sewing Nuggets - Alterations And Fitting - Fitting The Neckline
November 9, 2009
Sewing Places - Blog
Sewing Nuggets - Alterations And Fitting - Fitting The Neckline
Penn Foster Career School - Online
Dressmaking And Design
26 October, 2009
Topic: Alterations And Fitting - Fitting The Neckline
Fitting the Neckline
Changes made in the shoulder seam of a garment very often affect its neckline. Deepening the shoulder seam makes the neckline small, and lessening it has the opposite effect. Also, a garment may be correct through the shoulders and still require alteration at the neckline. Variations in figure and posture and sometimes carelessness in cutting are responsible for ill-fitting effects here.
There are several problems that can emerge at the neckline. It may need to be altered for size. You may need to eliminate bulges on the front or back. Horizontal wrinkles front or back can be caused by an ill-fitting neckline. Sometimes, the back neckline needs altering because it's too tight or too loose. One last problem is that the neck and shoulders of the garment may be always slipping backward. Let's look at solutions to each of these fitting problems one by one.
Adjusting the Neckline Size
The normal neckline forms a pleasing curve from the prominent bone at the base of the neck at the back to a point just above the collar bone at the front, as shown in Figure 1. The line should be high rather than low at the back and sides, and should fit snugly all around but not tightly. This is particularly important if a collar is used because a collar placed too low makes the neck look large. A nicely tailored effect in a roll or an erect collar can't be obtained if the neckline is cut too low. For a person who is rounded or plump at the back of the neck, place the shoulder seam a little back of the normal line, and keep the neckline high at the back. Always remember to make an allowance of 5/8 in. for finishing the edge.
Too Small
As shown in Figure 7A, a neckline that's too small extends above the normal neckline either across the front or back, or both, because it can't drop to its natural position. Examine the shoulder seams first, and decide whether they can be let out slightly as they approach the neckline. If this is permissible, do so, as shown in Figure 7B, limiting the alteration to this single change if it relieves the strain.
If you feel the shoulder seams shouldn't be changed, or if the slight change you've made hasn't altogether removed the difficulty, make enough tiny slashes at right angles to the neck edge, as shown in Figure 7B, to make the neckline feel comfortable and allow it to assume its correct position. Later, trim the material out to produce the normal neckline. Be careful to leave a seam allowance for finishing. Both the new shoulder seam and the slashed neckline are shown on the flat pattern in Figure 7C. As we've said, one or the other - or both - can be used to correct the small neckline.
Too Low or Too Large
There are three ways that poor dressmaking skills may cause too low or too large a neckline (Figure 8A).
Carelessness in cutting
Failure to check the pattern
Stretching of the curved line of the neck during tacking or fitting.
Doing things correctly in the first place will save you fitting and altering time in the end. A person with a very slender neck and sloping shoulders, however, may meet this difficulty when using an otherwise very satisfactory pattern. Naturally, the way to overcome the too-low appearance is by raising the neckline.
If the alteration is to be slight, deepen the shoulder seams near the neckline the necessary amount. If this won't bring up neckline sufficiently, build it up with the garment fabric, as in Figure 8B, both back and front, and then cut a new neckline of the required height. Unless this piecing can be concealed by a collar or accessory of some sort, it will necessarily be confined to calico. The changes as made on the flat pattern are shown in Figures 8C and 8D.
Raise the front bodice section by repinning the shoulder seam, making the alteration on the front only, as in Figure 9A.
Step 3:
Rip the underarm seam, readjust the garment in the position that it wants to assume (which will generally bring the end of the front underarm above that of the back, as indicated), and pin in place.
Step 4:
Then trim out the front armhole the needed amount.
Step 5:
Add length to the front by piecing it so as to make it the proper length. If the piecing doesn't seam necessary, trim off the back to correspond with the front. When piecing must be resorted to, unless it can be covered with a belt or a trimming detail, it can be used satisfactorily in calico only. Figure 9B shows the front pattern with these corrections indicated on it.
Eliminating Bulging of the Neckline
The fabric of the garment may bulge at front or back because of the posture of the figure to be fitted or because of the nature of the fabric itself. Let's look at how to eliminate bulges at front now. Then we'll look at how to eliminate bulges in the back of the neckline after that.
Sewiing Nuggets - Alterations And Fitting - Fitting The Shoulders
November 9, 2009
Sewing Places - Blog
Sewing Nuggets - Alterations And Fitting - Fitting The Shoulders
Penn Foster Career School - Online
Dressmaking And Design
25 September, 2009
Topic: Alterations And Fitting - Fitting The Shoulders
Fitting the Shoulders
The Shoulder Seam
The position and fit of the shoulder greatly affect both the comfort and the appearance of a garment. It's important, therefore, that you check carefully whether or not the shoulder seam conforms to the lines of the figure. Most set-in-sleeve garments have the shoulder seam located at the normal shoulder line; that is, a line that extends from the highest point at the neck straight to a point in back of the highest point of the shoulder, as shown in Figure 1. When the shoulder seam is located properly, you won't be able to see it easily while you are standing directly in front or directly in back of the figure. From the side, the shoulder seam appears to come at the center of the body, and the underarm seam is usually in line with it. An exception to the usual placing of this line is made in the case of a round-shouldered figure. Both the shoulder and underarm seam lines are-moved back slightly to make the round-shouldered figure appear more erect.
A neat line at the tip of the shoulder, neither too narrow nor to wide, is often the feature that gives a dress the desired professional touch. Also, a variation in figure from the average is very noticeable here because the armhole line is so important in the general silhouette. Corrections made at this point should therefore be very carefully thought out, so that the armhole seam will be in position exactly suited to the figure. Fashion constantly influences this line; sometimes the narrow shoulder is in vogue, at other times the normal, and at other times the wide. You should study current styles carefully for this feature, so that the shoulder line of the garments you create will be both attractive and modern. The normal line is shown in Figure 1.
Correcting The Slant Of The Shoulder Seam
If the shoulder seam slants to front or back either at the tip of the shoulder or at the neckline, or if the figure is round-shouldered, the seam must be opened and adjusted because, unless it takes its correct position, the finished effect of the garment will never be right. This alteration requires special care in order that the grain of the material, front and back, crosswise and length-wise, won't be disturbed. For such an alteration, the person being fitted should stand directly in front of a mirror, and the fitter should be behind her so that she can watch both back and front of the garment.
Figure 2 A shows a shoulder seam that slants too much toward the back at the tip of the shoulder. It's out of line with the underarm seam, too. To correct its position, follow these steps.
Step 1:
Rip the sleeve from the armhole across the top.
Step 2:
Rip open half of the shoulder seam, starting at the armhole end.
Step 3:
Turn in the seam allowance of the front the needed amount and pin the front over the back on a new line that will give the desirable straight effect to the shoulder seam, as shown in Figure 2B. This narrows the seam allowance of the back, while the front may remain the same or may be deepened somewhat as it approaches the shoulder tip.
Step 4:
Check the grain of the fabric at the level of the bustline front and back. Make sure that the grain of the fabric, both front and back, isn't drawn out of line.
Step 5:
Examine the effect carefully with one-half of the shoulder seam adjusted; then, if it seems necessary, open the other half of the shoulder seam to the neckline and repin this for a new line.
If the shoulder seam looks correct at the tip of the shoulder but slants to the back as it approaches the neck edge, then start alteration on the half of shoulder seam nearest the neckline. Rip the shoulder seam from the center to the neck edge and follow the same steps; that is, lessen the back seam allowance and deepen that of the front, as necessary, where the adjustment is needed.
Another problem you may encounter is that the shoulder seam slants to the front at the tip of the shoulder. If this happens, follow these steps to correct it.
Step 1:
Rip out the sleeve across the top.
Step 2:
Open the shoulder seam as far as necessary.
Step 3:
Lap the back seam line over the front shoulder the required amount to straighten the seam and pin it in place. In this change, the back shoulder seam remains the same, while the front becomes more shallow as the depth of the alteration increases.
The shoulder seam alterations you've just learned can be made on the finished garment under two conditions:
If the shoulder seam isn't too much out of line.
If the seam allowances on back and front are adequate
When the change you have to make in the shoulder seam is very great and when you're working with muslin, follow these steps to prepare to cut new front and back pieces.
Step 1:
Leave the shoulder seam as tacked, and with a pencil or pins, mark the new line, as shown in Figure 2C, placing it properly in direction and location.
Step 2:
Remove the garment.
Step 3:
Form a new shoulder line by cutting through the marked line.
Bernina is famous for combining the latest technology with traditional Swiss craftsmanship and the 8 Series machines are its finest creations. With over 70 new functions, 15 new patents and highly innovative software the Bernina 8 Series will fulfill the dreams of sewers, embroiderers and quilters alike. Pioneering features include a fully automated threading system, presser-foot control with automatic fabric-thickness recognition, programmable auto-secure function and built in dual feed. Free-motion sewing is transformed with the latest high speed Bernina Stitch Regulator (BSR), the unique device that ensures even stitching while you simply guide your work. With meticulous attention to every detail the Bernina 8 Series has been acclaimed as undoubtedly the finest range of sewing machines ever made.
The most space, the most speed and the most precision; the Bernina 820 and 830 are true revolutions for sewing and quilting. Cutting edge technology combined with Swiss craftsmanship opens a new world of previously unimagined sewing potential. However demanding or ambitious your sewing task, the Bernina 820 and 830 will let you perform faster, with flawless quality and with unparalleled ease. For anyone who is passionate about sewing and quilting, the innovative features and unmatched performance of the Bernina 820 and 830 offers unlimited possibilities and an incomparable sewing experience.
Within the elegant profile of the Bernina 820 and 830 are machines of extraordinary proportions and capability. The meticulously engineered free arm extends further than in any other machine and with an extra-large height clearance you have the room for your very biggest creations. The centrally located, ultra-responsive touch screen is ideally positioned for finger-tip control of all machine functions without the need to turn your head away from your sewing. The materials, the workmanship, the intuitive ease of use and the timeless design all contribute to making the Bernina 820 and 830 the ultimate sewing machines.
Artista 730
Artista 730 makes sewing, quilting and embroidery a form of art. Throughout the world, this model is regarded as the crème-de-la-crème of the top-end machines. The 730 is equipped with all of the typical superb features that have made Bernina so popular worldwide. In addition to a wealth of ultility and decorative stitches and embroidery designs, these also include automatic settings and intelligent features, such as the thread cutter. The large, clear touchscreen, its intuitive operation and the optimized arrangement of the function elements afford quick access to the versatile functions and extensive features. The bright CFL sewing light ensures even, shadow-free illumination of your sewing project. And once you've worked with the legendary FHS Free-Hand System, you won't let yourself be fobbed off with anything less. Not to mention the sensational Bernina Stitch Regulator (BSR) presser foot, which guarantees even stitch length at variable sewing speeds. No other manufacturer's machine currently boasts such a revolutionary feature. The machines equipped with the BSR presser foot are a revelation when quilting and sewing for both beginners and experienced sewers. With the addition of the optionally available embroidery module, the artista 730 is transformed into a master embroider working at incredible speeds.
The Artista 730 is also exemplary in terms of programmability, compatibility and extendibility. For instance, it allows you to select the machine's settings and to program the stitch patterns with personal settings. With the Microsoft Windows operating system, an optional modern, USB interface and the included USB data stick, the Artista 730 is ready for future developments and innovations. Downloading embroidery designs from the Artista Internet Portal is child's play!
Artista 640
The Artista 630 and 640 are highly developed sewing computers with a comprehensive range of utility and decorative stitch patterns. Simply add the optional embroidery module to make them perfect embroidery systems. Both models are also perfect quilters - thanks to the new optional BSR presser foot. The technical features and performance of these models leaves nothing to be desired: many of the exclusive Bernina functions are already built-in, making sewing so much easier.
Intuitive user guidance via the colour touchscreen. Stitch animation and animated sewing process support facilitate your sewing operations.
Artista 630
Adjustments can be made quickly and easily using the Bernina multifunction buttons. These buttons are also used to scroll through the embroidery tutorial. It is even possible to wind a bobbin separately while sewing.
The Start/Stop button and the slide speed control are ideal for comfortable, effortless sewing without using the foot control. These are the main differences between the two models: the Artista 640 boasts a wider range of stitch patterns, embroidery designs and alphabets. The Artista 640 also has an automatic thread cutter and lower thread indicator. The different hook systems mean that the Artista 630 can stitch attractive decorative stitch patterns up to a maximum stitch width of 5 mm whereas the Artista 640 can stitch up to a width of 9 mm.
Both the Artista 640 and 630 have an USB interface. A Bernina USB data stick is available as an option. It can be used to store embroidery designs for editing on a PC.
Aurora 440 QE
Aurora 430
The Aurora 440 QE is the first sewing computer to feature Bernina's exclusive, revolutionary innovation, the Stitch Regulator (BSR), for even stitch lengths at variable sewing speeds. The ingenious BSR is a great help when free-motion quilting - initially a difficult technique to master. Free-motion quilting is a lot easier to learn with BSR, enabling you to produce impressive results, even with difficult traditional and modern quilting techniques.
The Aurora 440 QE is the perfect machine for advanced quilters and beginners alike!
A host of utility and decorative stitches, several alphabets and...
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Hook and loop tape can be found in a variety of sizes and colors. An assortment of precut hook and loop fasteners are also available.
Sew On Hook And Loop Tape
1. Place the hook and loop tape in the desired location. Stitch around the border edges of the tape.
2. To prevent stitching from showing on the opposite side of the fabric, attach the hook and loop tape to a single layer of fabric before joining the fabric together.
3. Machine sewing around the edges of round hook and loop tape can be challenging due to the small circumference. Machine sew an X in the center of the tape, and end with a couple of backstitches for a durable attachment.
Tip
Hook and loop tape is also available with an adhesive backing, which is ideal for home decorating projects. However, be aware that the adhesive can bleed through some fabrics and gum up your sewing machine needle. Using sew-on hook and loop tape on the fabric side of your project is best.
When making costumes, hook and loop tape is a great shortcut for closing an opening.
Sewing Nugget "Hook And Loop Tape" is an excerpt from "Teach Yourself Visually "Sewing" By Debbie Colgrove.
Debbie Colgrove, Sewing has always been a part of who Debbie Colgrove is and what she does in her spare time. She started sewing with her mother as a youngster, taking her first tailoring class at age 14. Since 1997, Debbie has been the sewing guide for About.com and continues to build and extensive library of sewing information on the website. As the former Web editor for Sew News magazine, she traveled extensively meeting sewing enthusiasts from all over the United States. She enjoys introducing sewing to children and adults through teaching sewing classes and individuals at charitable organizations such as 4-H clubs and charity sewing nights. Debbie serves on her local Home Economics advisory board and also provides leader training for 4-H. She works with many sewing machine companies to keep the world abreast of the latest options available to home sewers. Debbie lives in upstate New York with her family.
Acknowledgments on Teach Yourself Visually "Sewing", After teaching many people to sew, I firmly believe that the book in your hands is the best possible learning tool for someone who wants to learn to sew. I can't thank the editors of this book enough for the opportunity to share the information that this book contains. A heartfelt thank you to the companies that shared their products and so much of their experience. I would also like to thank my husband and daughter for their patience and understanding when I lost track of time or deserted them.
I will never be able to thank my mother, Althea Triebel, for all the things she has done for me. But I would like to take this opportunity to thank her for teaching me to sew it correctly or rip it out (even when I balked) and for the endless hours of driving me to places to enhance my learning experiences.
Teach Yourself Visually "Sewing" is sold exclusively at Amazon.
For further details or to purchase please click on the respective name below:
Couture is sewing’s equivalent of gourmet cooking.The similarities are many:special ingredients and tools, new techniques, a passion for the process, and memorable results.In sewing, the experience is about the luxury of first-rate ingredients, taking the time to enjoy the creation, and the delight of a beautifully sewn garment all while carrying on the tradition of a rich and satisfying art form.
You’ll find couture gowns like this in the wardrobes of the rich and famous.These dresses are not off the rack, they’re lovingly handmade and out of this world.We’ll show you how to achieve this sewing status in your own projects.
For this dress, we chose Simplicity Sew Stylish pattern 3735 (you can use the pattern of your choice) and luxurious fabrics.This 4-ply silk crepe fashion fabric greatly benefits from an underlining’s hidden strength.Underlining supports each specific garment piece differently.For example, the fluid 4-ply silk is accentuated by the fluid silk crepe to chine underlining in the skirt.The bodice, however, needs a firmer underlining, like cotton batiste, to support its shaping, while silk organza works well for the strap underlining.Finally, the whole dress is lined with silk charmeuse.Follow along for how to combine these ingredients into your couture creation.
Prepare Your Pattern For Couture
Prep your pattern tissue for making a test garment, fit the test garment, then use it as the pattern.
Perfect Your Pattern
Most commercial patterns call for a standard 5/8 inch seam allowance for the stitching lines, but these aren’t marked on the pattern.So, before doing anything else, mark the stitching lines onto the pattern tissue.Simply mark 5/8 inch inside the cutting lines.These lines will be used to mark the stitching lines on the fabric later on.
Make A Test Garment
Good sewing projects begin with a test garment (also known as a muslin) made in inexpensive fabric.You can perfect the fit of the test garment, then dismantle it and use it as the pattern for the fashion fabric, lining, and underlining.
To make a test garment, iron the fabric, align the selvages with the grain exactly along the fold, and pin the pattern in place.Cut about 1 inch outside the pattern edges to extend the seam allowances for design changes and fitting alterations.Mark your fabric by carbon tracing the stitching lines and pattern markings onto the test fabric.Stitch along the carbon marks with a sewing machine, using long stitches and contrasting thread.(See below to learn how to carbon trace).
Use The Test Garment As The Pattern
Sew the test garment together with long machine stitches.They’ll be easy to undo when it’s time to use it as the pattern.Check and correct the fit and style lines.For example, I widened the straps.Because the dress is heavy, they’ll do a better job of supporting the gown.After noting the changes on the test fabric, take it apart, and press it flat.Then use it as your pattern to cut the underlining fabrics, fashion fabric, and lining.
On your mark …
Cut out your fashion fabric and mark the underlinings.
Use the separated muslin pieces to cut each underlining.Then, transfer all the important information from the muslin to the underlining.
get set …
Join underlining to fashion fabric.
Hand-baste the marked underlining and the fashion fabric together along the seamlines.Carefully and perfectly align the grainlines of the fashion fabric and the underlining.Join the layers with a simple running stitch using lightweight silk thread, which will pull out easily later.
Assemble your garment for a fitting.
Underline each garment section, then hand-baste the garment together for a fitting.Baste along the stitching lines, over the other basting you’ve done.Use a contrasting color basting thread for the second set of basting, so it’s easy to see which thread to pull out if adjustments are necessary.
sew!
Complete your fabulous couture gown.
Test your needle size, stitch length, and tension on scrap fabric.Use the exact combination of fabrics you’ll use in the garment.The gown’s construction is straightforward, but add a few of these couture touches to improve it:
1.Staystitch the top edges of the front bodice sections.
2.Reinforce the diagonal upper bodice edges with strips of narrow on-grain fusible cotton tape to keep them from stretching.
3.Be sure to sew the long side seams of the gown from the hem up.It’s always best to sew from the widest to the narrowest points of a garment.
4.Insert the zipper by hand.Use tiny backstitches and beeswax coated thread.Run the thread through the beeswax, and press it to melt the wax into the fibers.Place stitches ¼ to 3/8 inch apart.
5.To create the straps, underline the 4-ply silk with silk organza, staystitch its long edges, and press them inward.Then, hand-sew the silk charmeuse lining around all of the top bodice edges on the underside.
Finishing Touches
Finally create a beautiful hem
A hem is the final finishing touch on a great garment.Here are some options:
1.Hem the lining and the garment separately, in...
Sewing Nuggets - Earn An Extra Income While You Sew
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